Pushkar Camel Fair, Rajasthan, India     Click here for photos of Pushkar's temples and ghats

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Two days ago I went on a day trip to Pushkar, a Hindu pilgrimage site, from Jaipur. It has what is said to be the only temple dedicated to Lord Brahma in the world. Bathing ghats surround Pushkar Lake, which, like the umpteen other polluted lakes and rivers in India, is believed to have miraculous healing and purifying power. Though alcohol and meat are banned in this holy town, soft drugs are tolerated (Lord Shiva partakes of it himself!) and are a major draw for Westerners. Pushkar's history goes back a long way but all its temples date from modern times; the earlier buildings were summarily razed by the bad guy Aurangzeb.

This was my second visit, occasioned by the annual, weeklong Pushkar camel fair that attracts over 250,000 visitors from India and abroad. Villagers turn up for both business and pleasure. In the animal market, amid women gathering camel dung for fire and children frolicking in tanks that hold water for the camels, I felt transported back by decades, save for the prominent telecom company ads and the camcorder-toting tourists.

Besides the trade in camels, horses, livestock, and farm items, the fair-held in the outskirts of town at the edge of the desert-also offers lots of entertainment and a street market. The former includes tightrope walkers, performing monkeys, snake charmers, acrobats, dare-devil bikers, spherical mirror illusions, circus acts, and shows promising 'melting girls' and 'women who turn into serpents as they wish'. Competitions focus on moustaches and bridal wear, as well as events like camel and horse races, matka phod, and a cattle beauty contest. Brightly dressed women shop for fashion jewelry, pots and pans, and clothes. Food stalls abound, as do merry-go-rounds and similar rides. All in all, it seems like the biggest fun event of the season for the hinterland population.

It struck me afresh that these Rajasthani villagers are a proud and handsome lot, weathered by the sun and the desert, though they don't exactly shine on the UN Human Development Index. They have high rates of illiteracy, selective abortions, and underage marriages. Westerners visit aplenty, perhaps Rajasthan, old world and loudly demonstrative, represents a fairly safe and exotic foil to their own modernity. And since a picture says a thousand words, check out some I took that afternoon.   [—06 Nov 06; post/read visitor comments]

Camels for sale (more)	Imposing headgear (more)	Village maiden (1, 2, 3)	Down! Sit! (more)
Woman in blue			Thirst quenching (more)
Peek-a-boo!			Deformed man (more)
Young mother (more)	Gathering camel poop for fuel	All decked out	Woman watching a show
Malpua (goes with rabdi)			Young woman (1, 2, 3)
Desert scene			Visitors to the fair
Smoking a beedi (more)	Chillums for sale	Sadhu	Village men
Throngs heading to the fair	Granny	Camel fair ground (more)	Local delicacies
Circus in town	Young woman (more)	Village children	Two young men
Deformed woman	Sadhu with his cow	Village girl	Temple tower
A family with their camels	Village businessman	Weathered face	Desert woman
Two young men	Just sold!	Brushing teeth (dant manjan)	Conference
Man resting	Buying veggies	Girl with brother	Mother with children
Settling dues	Villager	Visitors to the fair	Deformed man
Shopkeeper	Visitor to the fair	Sadhu drinking tea	Local woman
Trying out a necklace	Women in yellow (1, 2)	Watching a show	Visitors to the fair
Veiled mother	Sadhus	Young woman	Albino kid
Watching a show (more)	Tightrope walker (1, 2)	Matted hair	Mother and child
Weathered face	Fresh after a bath	Watching the show	Tightrope walker
Buying sugarcane	Three young women (more)	Village elders	Family conference
Woman talking	Visitors to the fair	Visitor to the fair	Sadhu couple
Elderly woman (more)	Villagers at the fair	Shopper at the fair	Women congregating
Shopkeeper	Shopkeeper	Shopkeeper	Shopkeeper
Pushkar Lake	The bathing ghats (more)	Evening glow	Bathing pilgrims