Vijayanagar, Hampi, Karnataka, India
"I then visit the breathtaking ruins of Vijayanagar in Hampi, Karnataka. Once the capital city of the Vijayanagar Empire (c. 1336–1565), it was famed for its wealth, military prowess and cosmopolitanism. How did it acquire all the riches that foreign travellers gushed about? Was Vijayanagar a self-conscious bastion of Hinduism heroically resisting Islam for centuries, as Hindu nationalists claim? What is its legacy in south India? For such questions and a sense of its rulers, economy, trade, social customs and festivals, I lean on both scholars and visitors like Abdur Razzaq of Persia, Niccolo de Conti of Italy, and Duarte Barbosa, Domingo Paes and Fernao Nuniz of Portugal. Near Hampi, I also meet Krishna Devaraya, eighteen generations apart from his famous namesake and royal ancestor."
—From the Introduction of Namit Arora's Indians: A Brief History of a Civilization.
Virupaksha Temple Area |
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Main courtyard inside |
Vijayanagar began here |
The kingdom's state temple |
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A living medieval temple |
Pilgrims |
Pilgrims |
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A passageway |
Temple tank (more) |
Enamoured visitor |
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Decorated body |
A medievsl market |
Two-storey market |
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And quiet flows the |
Frolicking pilgrims |
A pavilion on the river |
Scenic river (more) |
Rocky vista with river |
Regulated by a dam |
Languid flow |
Pavilions along the river |
By the Tungabhadra |
By the Tungabhadra |
By the Tungabhadra |
Notice the sculpted cow |
Imposing edifices (more) |
Two-storey stalls (more) |
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Mandapa with Nandi |
Climbing Matanga Hill |
Shrine atop the hill |
Pavilions atop the hill |
Natural formations (more) |
Achyutaraya temple view |
View of Hampi bazaar |
Landscape nearby |
Hemakuta Hill (info) |
Shrines and carvings |
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Sasivekalu Ganesha |
Sasivekalu Ganesha |
Badaviling Shiva temple |
Temple preist (more) |
Lakshmi Narasimha |
Kadalekau Ganesha |
Relief sculpture inside |
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Hampi village |
Gabbing policemen |
A poster in Nov 2018 |
Transportation |
Krishna Temple Area |
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Krishna temple (info) |
Side entrance (more) |
Wall detail |
From back of the courtyard |
Weathered sculpture |
Entrance gateway from |
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Entrance doorway |
Krishna temple, |
A medieval bazaar |
Medieval inscription |
A medieval bazaar (more) |
Once traded lavish goods |
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A medieval bazaar |
Temple ritual tank |
Finely built tank (more) |
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Vittala Temple Area (info) |
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Main gopuram (more) |
Wheeled chariot |
Inner courtyard |
Temple complex |
Main temple side (more) |
Temple platform |
Ornate colonettes |
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Temple pillars (more) |
Breastfeeding woman |
Krishna |
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Lajja Gauri? (more) |
Acrobat? |
Guard? |
Mysterious pose |
Relief scultpure (more) |
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Shrine to Hanuman |
Another ornate pavilion |
Late evening view |
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Sculpted pillars (more) |
Persianate attire |
Still stunning (more) |
Relief sculpture (more) |
Relief sculpture (more) |
Amorous couple (more) |
Hanuman |
Alvar |
Another market north of |
More market stalls with |
Another market area |
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Another shrine |
Temple complex |
Ritual tank nearby (more) |
Another entrance |
King's Balance |
Two-storey gateway |
Landscape w/ ruins (more) |
Banyan "wishing" tree |
Roadside pavilion near |
Another roadside pavilion |
Gejjala mandapa |
Kuduregombe mandapa |
Narasimha temple on top |
Narasimha temple |
View from above (more) |
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A medieval bridge (more) |
Landscape with river |
Landscape with river |
Landscape with river |
Abode of the father of |
Sugriva's Cave |
Inside Sugriva's Cave |
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Sita Sarovar, where she |
Vishnu temple complex |
Lizard sculpture on |
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"Zenana" Enclosure (mislabeled because incorrectly identified as queen's residence; info) |
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Ornate building basement |
... with watchtower |
Another basement |
Lotus Mahal (more) |
Lotus Mahal detail |
Watchtower |
Another watchtower |
Elephant stables (more) |
Indo-Islamic architecture |
Parade ground |
Gallery with pointed arches |
Inside the building |
Hanuman (more) |
Sculpture |
East of Elephant stables |
A temple |
A temple (more) |
Inner sanctum |
Another structure |
Pavilions on the rocks |
Monumental gateway |
Barbican enclosure (more) |
Structure atop boulders |
Structure atop rocky hill |
Royal Enclosure (info) |
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Remains of outer walls |
Approaching entrance |
Mahanavami Dibba (more) |
Side view of platform (info) |
Ceremonial space |
Audience hall |
Ceremonial water tank? |
Southern vista |
Relief carvings |
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Hunting scene |
Musicians |
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Dancer |
Visitor |
Dancer |
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Dug out in the 80s (more) |
Raised water channel (more) |
A ceremonial tank? |
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A swimming pool? (more) |
View of Mahanavami Dibba |
Residential foundations |
Royal quarters |
Royal quarters (more) |
Walls within royal |
Towards more residential |
Once mighty edifices |
Visitor |
Inner wall (more) |
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A palatial house |
Royal residences (1, 2) |
Another posh residence |
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Residential structures |
Persianate architecture |
Columns inside |
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Area buildings (more) |
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Noblemen's quarter |
Landscape |
Pan Supari bazaar (more) |
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Bazaar area (more) |
Pattana Yellamma temple |
Temple pillars (more) |
Step well |
Local kids (more) |
Local girls |
Inside (more) |
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Octagonal Bath |
For the royals (more) |
The bath |
Chandrasekhara Temple |
Entrance gopuram (more) |
Chandrasekhara Temple |
Landscape with |
Fields among the ruins |
Hazara Rama temple, |
The only big temple in |
Side view |
Relief carvings (more) |
Relief cavings, outer wall |
Temple compound |
Inner sanctum |
Another shrine |
Hanuman |
Another temple in complex |
Yet another |
A goddess? |
Working women (more) |
Hunting scene |
Serpent dance? |
Garba like dance? |
Scenes of war in a |
Dancing & fighting scenes |
A temple's interior |
A temple's interior |
Prasanna Virupaksha |
A.k.a underground Siva |
Dates from 14th century |
Nandi |
Interior (more) |
Exit from inside |
Ritual tank nearby |
Hampi landscape |
Colonnade |
Picnic |
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Achyutaraya Temple Area (info) |
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Market outside temple |
Market stalls and shrine |
Entrance from inside |
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16th century pavilion |
Another gateway |
Inner courtyard |
Inner couryard |
Temple pillars (more) |
Inner sanctum |
Carved plinth |
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Ornately carved |
Pillared corridors |
Persianate attire (more) |
Water carrier |
Old man |
Krishna |
Man giving alms? |
Horny man? |
Palace guard? |
Woman looking in mirror |
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Pillars with relief |
Lovers |
Temple rear (more) |
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Devotee |
Hanuman |
Dancer |
Woman in odd pose |
Back of courtyard (more) |
Gateway in the rear |
A pavilion near entrance |
Sculpted pillars (more) |
Acrobat? |
Warrior king? |
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Goddess |
Krishna |
Giving alms? |
Musician (more) |
Dancing with waterskin? |
Palace guard? |
Animals |
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Tending a braid? |
Holding a bird? |
Dancing man? |
Woman w/ child, grinding |
Egret among ruins (more) |
Erotica (bestiality?) |
Erotica |
Twisted yoga pose? |
Visitor |
Market in evening light |
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Pillars around tank (more) |
Carvings around the tank |
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Kids visiting the temple |
Main temple gateway |
Nearby Kali shrine (more) |
A forest path near temple |
Banana plantation |
Pavilion by a stream |
Vista on the hike |
No menstruating women! |
Varaha Saiva temple |
Entrance doorway |
Sculpture |
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Other Urban Core Monuments, etc. |
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Bhima's Gate |
Named after Bhima of |
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Ganagitti Jain temple |
Front porch (more) |
Built in 1386 |
Temple rear view (more) |
Malyavanta Raghunatha |
Dedicated to Rama, Sita, |
Another gateway inside |
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Dancer (more) |
Man with a lamp (guard?) |
Mother and child |
Amorous couple (more) |
Playful carvings on wall |
Temple rear view (more) |
On Malyavanta hill |
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Landscape (more) |
Farmland amid the ruins |
Working the fields |
Cow with painted horn |
Interior with Mihrab, |
Nearby tomb with dome |
Inside the tomb |
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Talarigatta city gate (info) |
Gate from inside the city |
Autorickshaw ride |
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Anegundi village |
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Boat for Anegundi |
Towards Anegundi |
The Tungabhadra (more) |
Riverscape (more) |
Gangan Mahal in the |
Krishna Devaraya |
Sri Ranganatha Swami |
The temple with 12th |
God's vehicle for Anegundi |
Another festival |
A village street (more) |
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Chintamani Complex |
Ramayana's Kishkinda? |
Pillars in temple onsite |
Rama met Sugreeva here |
Krishna Devaraya's home |
Living room |
Upstairs |
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Dining room |
Kitchen |
Master bedroom |
Krishna Devaraya |
Entrance doorway |
Altar at home |
Ancestral ceremonial |
Rama Devaraya home |
Ruins of Anegundi fort |
The previous "king" |
Rama Devaraya, Nov 2018 |
His decaying compound |
Washing clothes in the |
Look, a snake! |
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A fort above Anegundi |
Ruins inside ramparts |
Landscape inside fort |
On path down to village |
Wishing tree |
With local kids |
Return to Hampi village |
Boulder hill |
ASI Museum at Hampi |
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Museum complex (info) |
Model of Hampi valley (info) |
Krishnadevaraya statue |
Rama, Lakshamana, Sita |
Bhairava |
Bhikshatana Murthy |
Naga Linga |
Seated Kali |
Virabhadra |
Durga |
Royal Devotee |
Garuda |
Garuda Holding Naga |
Hanuman |
Varaha Incarnation |
Lakshmi |
Royal Figure (Head) |
Alwar |
Alwar |
Hanuman |
Women with lamps |
Sita in Ashoka Vana |
Vishnu Ranganatha |
Weapons |
Royal Sati |
Nagini |
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Dining slab |
Foreign traders |
Royal Enclosure model |
Ambedkar statue nearby |
All pictures below are from my 2005 visit to Hampi |
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