Vijayanagar, Hampi, Karnataka, India


"I then visit the breathtaking ruins of Vijayanagar in Hampi, Karnataka. Once the capital city of the Vijayanagar Empire (c. 1336–1565), it was famed for its wealth, military prowess and cosmopolitanism. How did it acquire all the riches that foreign travellers gushed about? Was Vijayanagar a self-conscious bastion of Hinduism heroically resisting Islam for centuries, as Hindu nationalists claim? What is its legacy in south India? For such questions and a sense of its rulers, economy, trade, social customs and festivals, I lean on both scholars and visitors like Abdur Razzaq of Persia, Niccolo de Conti of Italy, and Duarte Barbosa, Domingo Paes and Fernao Nuniz of Portugal. Near Hampi, I also meet Krishna Devaraya, eighteen generations apart from his famous namesake and royal ancestor."

—From the Introduction of Namit Arora's Indians: A Brief History of a Civilization.


Virupaksha Temple Area

Virupaksha temple (1, 2)

Main courtyard inside

Vijayanagar began here

The kingdom's state temple

A living medieval temple

Pilgrims

Pilgrims

Sculpted pillars (1, 2)

A passageway

Temple tank (more)

Temple elephant,
blessing pilgrims (1, 2)

Enamoured visitor

Decorated body

A medievsl market
across the temple

Two-storey market
pavilion (more)

View from Hemakuta Hill
(1, 2)

And quiet flows the
Tungabhadra

Frolicking pilgrims

A pavilion on the river

Scenic river (more)

Rocky vista with river

Regulated by a dam

Languid flow

Pavilions along the river

By the Tungabhadra
near Hampi village

By the Tungabhadra
near Hampi village

By the Tungabhadra
near Hampi village

Notice the sculpted cow
on the rock

End of Hampi bazaar
(1, 2, 3)

Once stalls in the
medieval market (1, 2, 3)

Imposing edifices (more)

Two-storey stalls (more)

Mandapa with Nandi

Climbing Matanga Hill

Shrine atop the hill

Pavilions atop the hill

Natural formations (more)

Achyutaraya temple view

View of Hampi bazaar

Landscape nearby

Hemakuta Hill (info)

Temples on the hill (1, 2)

Shrines and carvings

Sacred monuments (1, 2)

Sasivekalu Ganesha

Sasivekalu Ganesha
temple (info)

Badaviling Shiva temple
(info)

Temple preist (more)

Lakshmi Narasimha
temple (info)

Kadalekau Ganesha
temple

Relief sculpture inside

Relief sculpture (1, 2)

Hampi village
transportation area

Gabbing policemen

A poster in Nov 2018

Transportation

       

Krishna Temple Area

Krishna temple (info)

Side entrance (more)

Wall detail

From back of the courtyard

Pillared hall (1, 2)

Sculpted pillars (1, 2)

Weathered sculpture
(more)

Entrance gateway from
the inside

Entrance doorway
relief carving (more)

Krishna temple,
side entrance

A medieval bazaar
across Krishna temple

Medieval inscription

A medieval bazaar (more)

Extolled by visitors (1, 2)

Once traded lavish goods

Market stalls (1, 2)

A medieval bazaar
across Krishna temple

Temple from the market
(1, 2)

Temple ritual tank

Finely built tank (more)

     

 

Vittala Temple Area (info)

Main gopuram (more)

Wheeled chariot

Inner courtyard

Temple complex

Main temple side (more)

Temple platform

Ornate colonettes

Courtyard (1, 2)

Temple pillars (more)

Relief sculpture (1, 2)

Breastfeeding woman

Krishna

Lajja Gauri? (more)

Acrobat?

Guard?

Mysterious pose

Relief scultpure (1, 2)

Relief scultpure (1, 2)

Relief scultpure (1, 2)

Relief scultpure (more)

Shrine to Hanuman

Another ornate pavilion

Columns inside (1, 2)

Late evening view

Sculpted pillars (more)

Persianate attire

Still stunning (more)

Relief sculpture (more)

Relief sculpture (more)

Amorous couple (more)

Hanuman

Alvar

Former market lanes
near the temple (1, 2, 3)

Another market north of
the temple (1, 2)

More market stalls with
temple visible at the end

Another market area
right outside (more)

Another shrine

Temple complex

Ritual tank nearby (more)

Another entrance

King's Balance

Two-storey gateway

Landscape w/ ruins (more)

Banyan "wishing" tree

Roadside pavilion near
Vittala temple

Another roadside pavilion

Gejjala mandapa

Kuduregombe mandapa

Narasimha temple on top
(more)

Narasimha temple (1, 2)

Narasimha temple

View from above (more)

A medieval bridge (more)

Landscape with river

Landscape with river

Landscape with river

Purandara mantapa
(1, 2)

Abode of the father of
Carnatic music

Sugriva's Cave

Inside Sugriva's Cave

Sita Sarovar, where she
dropped her jewels

Vishnu temple complex
(1, 2)

Vishnu temple complex
buildings

Lizard sculpture on
temple wall

     

 

"Zenana" Enclosure (mislabeled because incorrectly identified as queen's residence; info)

Ornate building basement

... with watchtower

Another basement

Lotus Mahal (more)

Lotus Mahal detail

Watchtower

Another watchtower
and enclosing wall

Elephant stables (more)

Indo-Islamic architecture

Parade ground

Gallery with pointed arches

Inside the building

Hanuman (more)

Sculpture

East of Elephant stables

A temple

A temple (more)

Inner sanctum

Another structure

Pavilions on the rocks

Monumental gateway

Barbican enclosure (more)

Structure atop boulders

Structure atop rocky hill

       

Royal Enclosure (info)

Remains of outer walls

Approaching entrance

Mahanavami Dibba (more)

Side view of platform (info)

Ceremonial space

Audience hall

Ceremonial water tank?

Southern vista

View from above (1, 2)

Platform wall detail (1, 2)

Relief carvings

Relief carvings (1, 2, 3)

Hunting scene

Musicians

Dancers (1, 2)

Another carving (1, 2)

Dancer

Dancers (1, 2)

Visitor

Dancer

Stepped water tank (1, 2)

Dug out in the 80s (more)

Raised water channel (more)

A ceremonial tank?

A swimming pool? (more)

View of Mahanavami Dibba

Residential foundations

Royal quarters

Royal quarters (more)

Walls within royal
enclosure

Towards more residential
areas for royals

Once mighty edifices
(more)

Visitor

Remains of palaces (1, 2)

Remains of palaces (1, 2)

Inner wall (more)

Silamantapa complex (1, 2)

A palatial house

Royal residences (1, 2)

Another posh residence

Residential structures

Reception hall (1, 2)

Persianate architecture

Columns inside

Octagonal pavilion (1, 2)

Area buildings
(1, 2)

Area buildings (more)

Hazara Rama temple (1, 2)

Noblemen's quarter

Landscape

Pan Supari bazaar (more)

Bazaar vicinity (1, 2)

Bazaar area (more)

Pattana Yellamma temple

Temple pillars (more)

Step well

Local kids (more)

Local girls

Sarasvathi temple (info)

Inside (more)

Octagonal Bath

For the royals (more)

The bath

Chandrasekhara Temple

Entrance gopuram (more)

Chandrasekhara Temple
(more)

Landscape with
Sarasvathi temple

Fields among the ruins

Hazara Rama temple,
rear view (info)

The only big temple in
the royal enclosure

Side view

Relief carvings (more)

Relief cavings, outer wall

Temple compound

Inner sanctum

Another shrine

Hanuman

Another temple in complex

Yet another

A goddess?

Working women (more)

Hunting scene

Serpent dance?

Garba like dance?

Scenes of war in a
warring empire (more)

Dancing & fighting scenes

A temple's interior

A temple's interior

Prasanna Virupaksha
temple (info)

A.k.a underground Siva
temple (more)

Dates from 14th century

Nandi

Interior (more)

Exit from inside

Ritual tank nearby

Hampi landscape

Queen's Bath (more, info)

The bath (1, 2)

Colonnade

Picnic

       

Achyutaraya Temple Area (info)

Nestled in a valley (1, 2)

Market outside temple

Market stalls and shrine

Entrance from inside
(1, 2, outside view)

16th century pavilion

Another gateway

Inner courtyard

Inner couryard

Temple pillars (more)

Inner sanctum

Sculpted pillars (1, 2)

Carved plinth

Ornately carved

Pillared corridors

Persianate attire (more)

Water carrier

Old man

Krishna

Man giving alms?

Horny man?

Palace guard?

Reflecting? (1, 2)

Reflecting? (1, 2)

Woman looking in mirror

Pillars with relief
sculptures (more)

Baby Krishna? (1, 2)

Lovers

Temple rear (more)

Devotee

Hanuman

Dancer

Woman in odd pose

Back of courtyard (more)

Gateway in the rear

A pavilion near entrance

Sculpted pillars (more)

Acrobat? (1, 2)

Acrobat?

Dancer (1, 2)

Warrior king?

Goddess

Krishna

Giving alms?

Musician (more)

Dancing with waterskin?

Holy man? (1, 2)

Palace guard?

Animals

Tending a braid?

Holding a bird?

Dancing man?

Woman w/ child, grinding

Egret among ruins (more)

Erotica (bestiality?)

Erotica

Twisted yoga pose?

Visitor

Marketplace outside (1, 2)

Long row of stalls (1, 2)

Market in evening light

Ritual rank (1, 2)

Well designed tank (1, 2)

Pillars around tank (more)

Carvings around the tank

Kids visiting the temple

Main temple gateway

Nearby Kali shrine (more)

A forest path near temple
(more)

Banana plantation

Pavilion by a stream

Vista on the hike

No menstruating women!

Varaha Saiva temple
entrance (info)

Entrance doorway

Sculpture

The temple (1, 2)

A bend in the river (1, 2)

The Tungabhadra (1, 2)

Pavilions by the river (1, 2)

Another temple (1, 2)

       

Other Urban Core Monuments, etc.

Bhima's Gate


Part of the perimeter wall
of the urban core (1, 2)

Barbican enclosure with
bent entryway (1, 2)

Named after Bhima of
the Mahabharata (more)

Ganagitti Jain temple
(info, inscription)

Front porch (more)

Built in 1386
(inner sanctum)

Temple rear view (more)

Malyavanta Raghunatha
temple

Dedicated to Rama, Sita,
and Lakshamana (info)

Pillared pavilion
(1, 2, 3)

Another gateway inside

Dancer (more)

Man with a lamp (guard?)

Mother and child

Amorous couple (more)

A living temple (1, 2)

Playful carvings on wall

Temple rear view (more)

On Malyavanta hill

Landscape (more)

Farmland amid the ruins

Working the fields

Cow with painted horn

Ahmad Khan's Mosque, part
of city's Islamic quarter (1, 2)

Interior with Mihrab,
built in 1439 (more)

Nearby tomb with dome

Inside the tomb

Talarigatta city gate (info)

Gate from inside the city

Autorickshaw ride

Tungabhadra Dam (1, 2)

       

Anegundi village

Boat for Anegundi

Towards Anegundi

The Tungabhadra (more)

Riverscape (more)

Gangan Mahal in the
center of Anegundi

Krishna Devaraya
supervising renovation

Sri Ranganatha Swami
temple

The temple with 12th
century columns

God's vehicle for Anegundi
car festival (more)

Another festival
procession

A village street (more)

A medieval pavilion in
the outskirts (1, 2)

Chintamani Complex

Ramayana's Kishkinda?

Pillars in temple onsite

Rama met Sugreeva here

Krishna Devaraya's home

Living room (1, 2)

Living room

Upstairs

Dining room

Kitchen

Master bedroom

Krishna Devaraya

Entrance doorway

Altar at home

Ancestral ceremonial
weapons

Rama Devaraya home

Ruins of Anegundi fort

The previous "king"

Rama Devaraya, Nov 2018

His decaying compound

Landscape around village
(1, 2)

Landscape around village
(1, 2)

Washing clothes in the
Tunghabhadra

Look, a snake!

A fort above Anegundi

Ruins inside ramparts

Landscape inside fort

On path down to village

Wishing tree

With local kids

Return to Hampi village

Boulder hill

       

ASI Museum at Hampi

Museum complex (info)

Model of Hampi valley (info)

Krishnadevaraya statue

Rama, Lakshamana, Sita

Bhairava

Bhikshatana Murthy

Naga Linga

Seated Kali

Virabhadra

Durga

Royal Devotee

Garuda

Garuda Holding Naga

Hanuman

Varaha Incarnation

Lakshmi

Royal Figure (Head)

Alwar

Alwar

Hanuman

Women with lamps

Sita in Ashoka Vana

Vishnu Ranganatha

Weapons

Pottery (info, coins)

Royal Sati

Nagini

Virabhadra

Dining slab

Foreign traders

Royal Enclosure model

Ambedkar statue nearby

       

All pictures below are from my 2005 visit to Hampi

Vittala temple

Stone chariot

Main temple

Musical pillars

Carvings

Courtyard

Krishna Temple

Pillared hall

Narasimha

Virupaksha temple

Courtyard

Gopuram

Baby elephant

Stepped tank

Hazara Rama temple wall

Local woman

Lotus Mahal

Lotus Mahal

Former parade ground

Elephant stable

 



Designed in collaboration with Vitalect, Inc. All rights reserved.